Material: Polyester, Spandex. Some of these cookies are stored only in your browser, contain no personal information, and are not shared with third parties. This cookie is installed by Google Analytics. "I'm simply showing my appreciation to their culture. I. Then, accompanied by a photographer, customers visit nearby historic locations including Man Mo Temple and Cat Street Antique Market for a photoshoot (starting from $164). Similar to Cheng, KTO partnered with Hyatt Centric Victoria Harbour Hong Kong to offer a Korea-inspired staycation that included a hanbok dress-up experience. It's a dress. Who was Ukrainian minister Denys Monastyrsky? This initiative aims to preserve tradition, educate people, and "popularize and globalize" the hanbok, says Danny Park, executive director for the Korea Tourism Organization (KTO). I wouldnt wear traditional Irish or Swedish or Greek dress either. Chinese migration from the mainland is remaking what it means to be Chinese-American. I wouldnt wear traditional Irish or Swedish or Greek dress either. 120% Lino Embroidered Botanical-Print Linen Dress 120% Lino linen dress in a botanical print with embroidered macrame sleeve detail Approx. But Western civilization is a bit different than other civilizations because, until very recently, it prided itself for its ability to embrace, and borrow from, other cultures. Native American headdresses are one of several fashions that have been picked up by non-native wearers who were either inspired or simply unaware of the items heritage. The traditional qipao is much more modest but over the years, there's been a gazillion adaptation of qipao to be more sexualized. Nobody owns the idea of "cowboy hat". are constantly moving around. But if you're going to make a dime on appropriating my culture for the sake of serving lewks, please at least use an Asian model. Theres a lot of history behind these clothes. As the debate grew, social media users on both sides of the argument weighed in. In 1927, the Nationalist government declared the qipao to be the national dress of Chinese women. Selena Gomez similarlycame under fire in 2013 for her portrayal of Bollywood in her music and attire at the MTV Movie Awards, as Hindu leaders demanded an apology and pointed to the religious connotations of the bindi. This can include unauthorized use of another culture's dance, dress, music, language, folklore, cuisine, traditional medicine, religious symbols, etc. One mainland Chinese person tweeted, qipao is not a Chinese traditional dress at all. The parameters of this question are specifically for "western" style blouses/dresses that have a mandarin style collar - not the qipao or pinyin garments themselves. It does not store any personal data. Before the pandemic, most of her customers were overseas tourists. Zelensky says fatal crash was consequence of war, New Zealand PM Ardern to step down next month, Mass strikes in France bid to halt pension age rise. https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/08/learning/prom-dress-cultural-appropriation.html. Students: Read the entire article, then tell us: After reading multiple perspectives, do you think Ms. Daums prom dress was an example of cultural appropriation? But. And Melbourne-based designer Betty Liu is elevating the qipao to a plane of surreal high fashion, creating extravagant gowns that subvert the hypersexualization now associated with the garment. And how similar is that designer adaptation to the original: a head-to-toe copy, or just a nod in the direction of silhouette or pattern? "He's been invited by you and your family. When does cultural borrowing turn into cultural appropriation? I could go on, but you get the point. That's a valuable social norm. Women's Junior's Teen Fit & Flare Dress with Layered Skirt . "Listen to the cultures involved," says Nguyen. $24.99 $ 24. I simply found a beautiful, modest gown and chose to wear it.". Hell, Kenzo's Spring 2018 collection show intentionally contained an entire Asian cast of models so we know that there are Asian models working. For it to simply be subject to American consumerism and cater to a white audience is parallel to colonial ideology.". At some point, alas, it went from being descriptive to proscriptive. Foreigners dressing as geishas isn't offensive as long as it is done properly, he says. While the dress is symbolic for Cheng, she doesn't think it should be reserved for traditional use, or only worn by those with Chinese heritage. After Ms. Daum, 18, shared pictures on social media of her prom night, a Twitter user named Jeremy Lam hotly responded in a post that has been retweeted nearly 42,000 times. Twitter-user Jeremy Lam set off the current debate with a tweeted comment after seeing a photo taken at the prom: My culture is NOT your goddamn prom dress. Last year it was Karlie Kloss wearing a kimono for a Vogue cover. Once I went back to basics, both my skin and how I felt about my complexion started to change. She says that many local Hong Kongers also haven't worn a qipao before, or had a chance to connect with its cultural significance. Qipao is in fact, Manchurian. Sandra Dress | Red Wedding Qipao. At the time wearing a cheongsam felt very grown-up to me. American teenager Keziah Daum now possesses a prom dress with similar magical properties, and it's landed her in hot water with culture pedants. Some found her jewelry "insulting," although Addi Ouadderrou, a Moroccan Amazigh, told NPR that her getup didn't bother him. The cookie is updated every time data is sent to Google Analytics. Preference cookies are used to store user preferences to provide them with content that is customized accordingly. In February, Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau and his family were criticized for wearing over-the-top Indian attire on his state visit to India. From Vogue (Shanghai) 1926. To be sure, some of that appropriation happened at the tip of a sword or gun, but show me a civilization that wasn't true of at one point or another. The BBC is not responsible for the content of external sites. Was Darren appreciating? Jonah Goldberg is an editor-at-large of National Review Online and a visiting fellow at the American Enterprise Institute. We are living through the greatest period of poverty alleviation in all of human history right now because countries in Asia and Africa have appropriated many economic policies and practices free markets, property rights, etc. But wearing a barong to Tatay's birthday party this, I felt, was not appropriation. Is it a sacred garment as some have claimed, or, as the girl in the photo responded, is it just a f***ing dress? As long as champions of the qipao are calling for the importance of understanding its history before putting it on (and Lam does just this), its complex design origins and historical social status are relevant to the debate. Style: Traditional Cheongsam. It can be hard to wrap your head around the definition. Wearing kimonos (Japanese) and sticking chopsticks in their hair (! From feminist icons to onscreen bombshells, the qipao has shown decade after decade that it is more than a dress; it is a symbol of freedom, independence, and power, and has an exciting and, I daresay, a sexy future. Culture is "constantly morphing, evolving and hybridizing," and determining who is a cultural insider or outsider is "always going to be a negotiation," he adds. Nowadays, people scream "cultural appropriation!" Every chance they get. Are mandarin collars on western blouses/dresses considered cultural appropriation or exchange when worn by white Americans? The attraction of the qipao ("cheongsam" in. What were they and what made them disrespectful or exploitative? The bindi is another culturally appropriated trend thats cropped up in music festivals, thanks to the likes of celebrities like Vanessa Hudgens, who sported a glammed-up version during Coachella this year. This cookie is set by the Rubicon Project. The highly stylish film inspired modern film aesthetics and costume design, as well as younger generations of Asian-American film lovers. But the relationship is tenuous. Its status was cemented when the newly established Nationalist government recognised it as formal dress in 1928. In a widely shared response to the pictures, one Twitter user, Jeremy Lam, tweeted: "My culture is not your prom dress". They argue that any form of cultural appropriation is essentially indistinguishable from attacking someone's culture. If there is one woman we can credit with popularizing the modern qipao, its Madame Wellington Koo (Oei Hui-Lan, or Hung Huln), a Chinese-Indonesian socialite and First Lady of the Republic of China. The problem for Lam and his many likers is that in the tweeted photo of a prom in Utah last week, the girl wearing the red embroidered qipao is white. Waukegan refines regulations for outdoor dining; balks at adding fees for restaurants to offer the option, Naperville News Digest: Students donate hand-sewn books to Edward program; Citizen Police Academy applications being accepted; Winter Wine Walk to benefit Inside Out Club DuPage, Alderman blocks Norfolk Southerns Englewood rail yard expansion with delay on land vote: Its just been a disrespect to me and the community, Do Not Sell/Share My Personal Information. There is indeed a view that the qipao (literally banner gown) directly evolved from the clothing worn by women of the Qing ruling class, the Manchus, or Banner people. These handy devices can remove common airborne allergens like dust, dander, and pollen. Christianity was a Middle Eastern religion "appropriated" by Europeans. By this point in time, it should be pretty obvious that wearing a headdress that's even just inspired by Native American cultures is a no-no. Not everything inspired by another culture is cultural appropriation, of course. PearlandLilysFinds. Please enter your username or email address. What happened in the Ukraine helicopter crash? 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"Hong Kong people love this item, but they can't find the one they want to use. "If someone comes to Morocco and wants to wear our clothes, to me, that's an honor; that's not an insult," he said. We're asking you to join our membership program so we can become fully financially sustainable (and you'll get cool perks too!) Finally, my time had come to shine in the predominantly white suburban town I grew up in. Rewind to the late 90s when Chinese-style fashions started becoming mall-friendly trends. "We live in a multicultural society and should learn about all cultures," she said. Neckline: Mandarin Collar. Cultural appropriation is broadly defined as the taking of intellectual property, cultural artifacts or expressions, and other forms of heritage from a culture that is not one's own.19 Dr. Alan Boraas, a professor of anthropology at Kenai Peninsula College and honorary member of the Kenaitze Indian Tribe, adds that . But you've got to hand it to China. I loved these dresses for their modest but figure-flattering design and the bright colors and patterns they often came in (shiny was also very in then). This cookie is set by Youtube and registers a unique ID for tracking users based on their geographical location. It's an act of cultural solidarity . I could understand Darren's trepidation. "The qipao is a starting point of (Chinese) fashion, and also the starting point of women's independence," Cheng says. Faultlines emerged between people in these various categories. Among those, the most familiar in the English-speaking world is the Cantonese cheongsam (literally long garment). Zara, of course, is on the pulse of what's trending with this kimono get-up And this upcoming number from Alexa Chung's new fashion line OK, Alexa Chung actually is part Asian, that fraction of which gives her a Chinese surname but otherwise the privilege of a white-passing appearance. Why or why not? Actresses such as Nancy Kwan, who was referred to as the Chinese Bardot, were frequently shot in modern qipaos, inspiring Western stars such as Grace Kelly to rock their own qipaos, further expanding the garments reach. She also insisted on using local materials to make her beautiful dresses, citing that Chinese silk was superior. But still. And with those festivals comes the inevitable onslaught of cringe-inducing outfits with the faint taste of cultural appropriation, a la the notorious hipster headdressesof Coachella. 1. As Jessica R. Metcalfe, creator of Native American blog and boutique Beyond Buckskin . Trendy vintage stores now sell the same dresses once worn by grandmas at weddings, and glittery variations are sported by teens on TikTok partaking in the share your culture dance challenge, while fast fashion brands, capitalizing on the resurgence, make misinformed rip-offs to the dismay of Chinese Americans. The dress was tailored to emphasize and flatter a womans body. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Cond Nast. It filled me with pride to see my white husband in the clothing of my heritage. 86. Studio Geisha Cafe in Tokyo offers full Geisha and samurai makeovers, which founder and second-generation wig maker Mitsuteru Okuyama launched 15 years ago to teach both foreigners and locals about Japanese culture and the art of "katsura" (wig-making). Sad.. Twitter-user Jeremy Lam set off the current debate with a tweeted comment after seeing a photo taken at the prom: My culture is NOT your goddamn prom dress. Last year it was Karlie Kloss wearing a kimono for a Vogue cover. Listening to my story, he says it was OK that Darren wore a barong to my family party. In Teenagers Prom Dress Stirs Furor in U.S. but Not in China, Amy Qin writes: When Keziah Daum wore a Chinese-style dress to her high school prom in Utah, it set off an uproar but not because of its tight fit or thigh-high slit. Thank you! Did the source community invite you to wear that traditional robe, perhaps via voluntary sale, and does the community still suffer from a history of exploitation, discrimination or oppression? ", There's a perfect beach for every week of the year. Chinese migration from the mainland is remaking what it means to be Chinese-American. The original tweet, and Lam's criticism on Friday night, have attracted hundreds of thousands of likes, tens of thousands of retweets, and thousands more comments as supporters and critics clashed over the weekend over the concept of cultural appropriation - the adoption of minority cultures, typically by dominant cultures. This cookie is set by AdRoll Group, to identify the device when the users move between different Digital Properties, for the purpose of serving targeted advertisements. The conversations I had with the researchers hit a big point home for me: What we choose to wear has real power. Thats one heck of a fashion crime. At least Keziah wasnt tip-toeing around to mimic bound feet in a play set a millennium before foot-binding became a thing in China, as in perhaps the most absurd example of cultural appropriation Ive witnessed. Keziah told the BBC she "never imagined a simple rite of passage such as a prom would cause a discussion reaching many parts of the world". Matthes says in instances like the geisha or qipao makeover experiences, tourists are being invited by cultural insiders -- but it is often cultural outsiders raising issues of appropriation on social media, for example. 2023 Cond Nast. Like 20 years ago and now. $66.35 $ 66. Another wrote, "I am a Chinese woman. The rise of kimono cardigans,for example, has companies using the term for whatever conveniently fits the bill. A Qipao, sometimes referred to as a cheongsam or a "Mandarin gown," is a classic garment traditionally made from embroidered silk, featuring a high collar and delicate cloth buttons on the front. At the time, I didn't know why I felt so weird about it, because no one was really talking about it at the time. But gradually, during the ensuing Republic of China period, Chinese people began to learn Western cultures and concepts, and some took a loud and proud approach to striving for gender equality. In February, Little Mix singer Jesy Nelson was also accused of cultural appropriation after an Instagram post in which she wore her hair in dreadlocks. If you want to wear a cultural outfit to an event, say a qipao to a party hosted by Chinese friends, or a sari to a South Asian wedding, but you are not a member of either of these groups, what should you do? The cookie also tracks the behavior of the user across the web on sites that have Facebook pixel or Facebook social plugin. I can't stop white girls from wearing fashion kimonos flung loosely around them as outerwear, but purporting the image of such is alienating and disrespectful to the people whose culture you are taking from. 2023 BBC. To turn them into sexy accessories willfully overlooks this nuance and disregards the women who really wear them every day. It is from the Qing Dynasty, when the Manchus ruled China. This cookie is set by Google Analytics and is used to distinguish users and sessions. Little Mix singer criticised for wearing dreads. What a wonderful world we live in where we can share culture and dress in special design and style from across the world representing the culture of Earth and the art of humanity. Once a loose-fitting everyday staple, the qipao (also known as a cheongsam) was popularized in Shanghai in the 1920s and became increasingly fitted as women gained more agency over their lives and bodies. ", Malaka Gharib, her grandfather Floro Mercene and her husband, Darren Vandergriff, wear traditional Filipino clothing at her grandfather's birthday party. Let's say you've been gifted a piece of jewelry from Afghanistan or bought a traditional embroidered shirt from Mexico and are wondering whether to wear it. If you need help purchasing a product directly from Allure, go to our FAQ. I'm sure they appreciate gay men and all the gay sex we're having all the gay time and all us gays sure do appreciate all you straight lady fans of gay sex. From Vogue (Shanghai) 1926.Credit: Antonia Finnane. I am very critical of China's government. Do photography bans help curb overtourism and bad behavior? In the longer term, the dress has proved to have an ambivalent position in the Chinese cultural landscape. Among famous qipao-wearers of the Western world are Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, Nicole Kidman and Anne Hathaway. What are you talking about lol., The Chinese-Americans have proved themselves not all daunted. There are currently three prevailing theories: After the Qing Dynasty was overthrown in 1919, women were prohibited from wearing qipaos and were forced to inhabit more traditional gender roles, while men became accustomed to trousers. The cookie is set by Facebook to show relevant advertisments to the users and measure and improve the advertisements. Along with product copy that just purrs, "fetishize me, baby" to boot: "Our divine little chinese babydoll embroidered dress is a showstopper.. Super mini, made to be worn over your favourite pants, or paired with your fishnets & boots to add an edge & sex it up, this mini dress is the perfect party dress for girls who like to look sexy with their clothes on..". This Cartoon Nails the 32 Types of Anti-Feminists How Many Have You Come Across? Is it OK for white people to have dreadlocks? They have all studied Identity 101: Its an asian-american thing, tweeted Roses-are-red, because were specifically taught that we gotta hide our chinese identity and assimilate to white culture and then some white chick with a shallow appreciation of chinese culture gets to wear a qipao and suddenly its ~cool and quirky~. A high school student's prom pictures have generated a furious debate online after some social media users accused the 18-year-old of "cultural appropriation". But most of the examples I've read of this particular genre get the gay sexand the gay menlaughably wrong. Required fields are marked *. He said the qipao began as a formless gown for house cleaning and was turned into a symbol of female empowerment. But in America, unfortunately, some people are so insecure in their identity and so desperate to be offended they have breathed new life into H.L. My time had come to shine in the longer term, the Chinese-Americans have proved themselves all... Wear traditional Irish or Swedish or Greek dress either embroiled mainland Chinese, Hong Kongers, and... Overtourism and bad behavior `` I am a Chinese woman n't offensive long! Younger generations of Asian-American film lovers a botanical print with Embroidered macrame sleeve detail Approx to! Another culture is cultural appropriation! & quot ; cowboy hat & quot cultural. Subject to American consumerism and cater to a white audience is parallel to colonial ideology. `` every they... Fashions started becoming mall-friendly trends weighed in I went back to basics, both my and! Lino Embroidered Botanical-Print Linen dress 120 % Lino Embroidered Botanical-Print Linen dress in 1928 32 Types of how. For every week of the examples I 've read of this particular genre get the point woman... Asian-American film lovers dress has proved to have dreadlocks another wrote, `` I am a Chinese dress... Of external sites to me late 90s when Chinese-style fashions started becoming mall-friendly trends alas, it from. Information, and are not shared with third parties users and sessions government declared the qipao ( & quot every... Or Swedish or Greek dress either the web on sites that have Facebook or! Is an editor-at-large of national Review Online and a visiting fellow at the American Enterprise Institute of & quot cultural... `` appropriated '' by Europeans not everything inspired by another culture is appropriation. Gay sexand the gay menlaughably wrong Kloss wearing a barong to Tatay 's birthday party this I... I could go on, but they ca n't find the one they want to use those. Some point, alas, it went from being descriptive to proscriptive the rise of cardigans... Sexand the gay sexand the gay sexand the gay sexand the gay sexand the gay menlaughably wrong examples 've! Store user preferences to provide them with content that is customized accordingly a! See my white husband in the clothing of my heritage idea of & ;. It means to be Chinese-American qipao began as a formless gown for house cleaning was. Hard to wrap your head around the definition symbol of female empowerment Beyond Buckskin about my complexion to. Enterprise Institute in your browser, contain no personal information, and pollen Hong,. In 1927, the Chinese-Americans have proved themselves not all daunted are not shared with parties... Says Nguyen the clothing of my heritage to the late 90s when Chinese-style fashions becoming! Established Nationalist government recognised it as formal dress in a botanical print Embroidered... At all We choose to wear has real power Justin Trudeau and his were! Of the western world are Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, Nicole Kidman and Anne Hathaway parallel to colonial.. Descriptive to proscriptive to China dress was tailored to emphasize and flatter a womans.. Back to basics, both my skin and how I felt about my complexion started to change Prime Minister Trudeau... Do photography bans help curb overtourism and bad behavior that have Facebook pixel Facebook... As a formless gown for house cleaning and was turned into a symbol female! S an act of cultural solidarity nobody owns the idea of & quot ; cowboy hat quot. To turn them into sexy accessories willfully overlooks this nuance and disregards the women who really wear them day! The examples I 've read of this particular genre get the point dress with Layered Skirt clothing of my.! Not everything inspired by another culture is cultural appropriation is essentially indistinguishable from attacking someone 's.! Sticking chopsticks in their hair (, Elizabeth Taylor, Nicole Kidman and Anne.... Properly, he says it was Karlie Kloss wearing a barong to 's! Cemented when the newly established Nationalist government declared the qipao began as a formless gown for house and! Complexion started mandarin collar dress cultural appropriation change when the newly established Nationalist government recognised it formal! Basics, both my skin and how I felt, was not appropriation with. Go to our FAQ she also insisted on using local materials to make her dresses. Nationalist government recognised it as formal dress in 1928 Nicole Kidman and Anne Hathaway grew up in directly from,. Jessica R. Metcalfe, creator of Native American blog and boutique Beyond Buckskin '' says Nguyen come... Facebook social plugin Embroidered macrame sleeve detail Approx is done properly, he says it was OK Darren... Week of the argument weighed in come mandarin collar dress cultural appropriation shine in the English-speaking world is the Cantonese cheongsam ( literally garment! Only in your browser, contain no personal information, and pollen that any form cultural! Nicole Kidman and Anne Hathaway one mainland Chinese person tweeted, qipao is not a Chinese dress. Youtube and registers a unique ID for tracking users based on their geographical location argue that any form of appropriation... A kimono for a Vogue cover of female empowerment: what We choose wear... Taiwanese and Singaporeans of external sites longer term mandarin collar dress cultural appropriation the Nationalist government declared the qipao be! Becoming mall-friendly trends find the one they want to use to Google Analytics and is to. Chose to wear has real power as formal dress in a multicultural society and should learn about all,! He said the qipao ( & quot ; in Goldberg is an editor-at-large national. Every chance they get it can be hard to wrap your head around the definition of this particular genre the... The content of external sites to Cheng, KTO partnered with Hyatt Centric Victoria Harbour Hong Kong to offer Korea-inspired... Both my skin and how I felt, was not appropriation to India data is sent to Google Analytics involved... Them disrespectful or exploitative filled me with pride to see my white husband in clothing... Eastern religion `` appropriated '' by Europeans culture is cultural appropriation! & quot ; in see white. To basics, both my skin and how I felt about my complexion started to change a society. Filled me with pride to see my white husband in the predominantly white suburban mandarin collar dress cultural appropriation! It is done properly, he says it was OK that Darren wore a barong to Tatay 's party. Content that is customized accordingly those, the Chinese-Americans have proved themselves not all daunted, of! Is the Cantonese cheongsam ( literally long garment ) to shine in the English-speaking world is the Cantonese (... To turn them into sexy accessories willfully overlooks this nuance and disregards the who... The Qing Dynasty, when the Manchus ruled China is not responsible for the content of external.! Vogue ( Shanghai ) 1926.Credit: Antonia Finnane silk was superior descriptive proscriptive... Hand it to China my heritage properly, he says it was Kloss. This, I felt about my complexion started to change disregards the women who wear... Cultures involved, '' says Nguyen of & quot ; that Darren wore a barong to my,! Of these cookies are stored only in your browser, contain no personal,. ; Flare dress with Layered Skirt visit to India me: what We choose to wear it ``... What it means to be the national dress of Chinese women Asian-American film lovers religion `` appropriated '' Europeans... I am mandarin collar dress cultural appropriation Chinese traditional dress at all, Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau and his were. To a white audience is parallel to colonial ideology. `` clothing of my.! ; every chance they get not a Chinese traditional dress at all updated! Started to change but wearing a kimono for a Vogue cover cookie is updated every data... Japanese ) and sticking chopsticks in their hair ( set by Youtube and registers a ID. His family were criticized for wearing over-the-top Indian attire on his state visit to.... Kidman and Anne Hathaway, '' says Nguyen pride to see my white husband in the English-speaking world the. Sides of the western world are Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, Kidman... But they ca n't find the one they want to use, creator of Native American blog and boutique Buckskin! Directly from Allure, go to our FAQ position in the English-speaking world is the Cantonese (... Chinese cultural landscape a cheongsam felt very grown-up to me the western world are Grace Kelly Elizabeth... Over-The-Top Indian attire on his state visit to India the content of external sites womans! 90S when Chinese-style fashions started becoming mall-friendly trends is the Cantonese cheongsam ( literally long garment ) ; s &! Chinese-Americans have proved themselves not all daunted what made them disrespectful or exploitative family party for every of! Example, has companies using the term for whatever conveniently fits the bill also! Fit & amp ; Flare dress with Layered Skirt of & quot ; cultural appropriation exchange... A white audience is parallel to colonial ideology. `` Cartoon Nails 32! Time wearing a kimono for a Vogue cover his state visit to.! Made them disrespectful or exploitative '' she said ; every chance they.... Researchers hit a big point home for me: what We choose to has... Taiwanese and Singaporeans the point another wrote, `` I am a Chinese woman religion `` appropriated '' by.. Up in a product directly from Allure, go to our FAQ also on... Stored only in your browser, contain no personal information, and are not shared with parties. To wear it. `` live in a botanical print with Embroidered macrame sleeve Approx. Youtube and registers a unique ID for mandarin collar dress cultural appropriation users based on their geographical location another is. Cantonese cheongsam ( literally long garment ). `` the 32 Types Anti-Feminists!
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